An upscale restaurant has just opened in Walla Walla and has already risen to be the second most popular restaurant in town.
Chef and owner Christopher Ainsworth, formerly of the Fish Club in Seattle, and his wife are transforming the corner of West Alder and Third; having just opened Saffron, they are soon to open a Vietnamese restaurant next door.
Slightly off of Main Street, Saffron Mediterranean Kitchen is a hidden jewel. Early on a Friday night, Saffron was already starting to fill up with a well-dressed, wine-loving crowd.
The inside of Saffron is magnificent with dark wood and cozy lighting. As the sun was still out, however, we chose to sit out on the patio under large red umbrellas.
The patio had a distinct European feel. But instead of a small cobble-stoned road, the tables were next to busy Alder Street. Those seeking a quieter dining experience should opt for the glass-covered tables inside.
Our waiter came out immediately. As she poured us water, she told us the special was a buccitin a la raza, a garden-hose pasta cooked Roman style so as to incorporate the flavors. We puzzled over the seemingly self-important pasta as she brought out olive focaccia bread and Moroccan flat-bread. The dip was roasted garlic in olive oil. The delectable combination of the two led to the bread’s disappearance even before we had decided on what to order.
Saffron has an impressive array of local wines, typical of most restaurants in Walla Walla. Unfortunately, being under 21, we stuck to water and ordered appetizers instead. Saffron has a vast number of appetizers or tapas.
The prices range anywhere from $6 for a simple mixed greens salad to $14 for a Moroccan grilled quail. We chose three appetizers. The seasonal gazpacho was the best of the three, a unique, lightly spiced soup that tasted like heaven. The falafel bites were good; the falafel itself was without strong flavor but the curried mint yogurt dip was delicious. The mezze plate of homemade spreads and grilled flatbread was quite good, the best spread being the “spicy” feta to which there really wasn’t a strong spice.
It would have been easy to order a meal simply consisting of appetizers. Instead, we clutched our wallets and dove into the entrees.
The entrees arrived in small, well-presented portions on square white plates. The gnocchi, a goat cheese pasta, was deliciously buttery, while the paella rojo was spicy and contained a wide variety of animals, ranging from rabbits to octopus. Note to vegetarians: You might have to stay away from most of the entrees at this restaurant.
One of our party ordered squab, a pigeon before it has taken flight. The squab was purposefully undercooked and surprisingly tasted of citrus. Both the paella and the special tasted strongly of seafood, almost to the point that you remembered how far Walla Walla is from the ocean.
The dessert was by far the highlight. A chocolate buchon made of pumice flour, it was small in size but rich in flavor. The consensus among our table was that while some of the food was outstanding, other entrees were perhaps not worth the high price tag, amounting to roughly $40 per person.
